The Sheards 2015 Adventure: April 2015

Amy (9) had put her case forward why there was no need for us to ‘train’ in Thailand, ahead of our Nepal trek in the Annapurna mountain range.

‘If in Nepal we will be walking for 4 hours a day, then it makes sense that we should do no walking now. Then on the whole we would have done the right amount of walking’.

Ella and Anna joined in the discussion with equally compelling theories - demonstrating their highly effective skills in emotional blackmail; the important thing was we were talking about our visit to Nepal. The trekking was going to be tough - regardless of our having a couple of porters (one with a Dohu to carry Anna if she was tired) and a guide.

-------------------------------------------------------------

I had travelled to Nepal for 4 weeks in 1993 with a couple of friends after finishing University. The mountainous north of Nepal has eight of the world's ten tallest mountains, including the highest point on earth, Mount Everest. More than 240 peaks over 20,000 ft (6,096m) above sea level are located in Nepal, and the magic of the mountains combined with the Nepalese culture combine to provide a unique and unforgettable experience.

I am on the left, with Darryl Newton (Middle) and Stuart Reeve (Right)
Halfway to the Annapurna base camp. 1993.

-------------------------------------------------------------

At the end of 2015, after travelling through over 20 countries – I was convinced the warmth of the Nepalese culture, the challenge of trekking, the jaw dropping scenery and safari would lead to Nepal being the standout of all the destinations we had visited.

We were well prepared for our 3 weeks in Nepal. It was the only part of our itinerary where we had insisted on having a fully inclusive trip booked - from our arrival right through to our departure. The tour company we hired was 'Nepal Trailblazer Trekking', a highly experienced and well regarded company that had been established for two decades, and were specialists in delivering tours to families with young children. Our itinerary was tailored to us, with a typical 5 day trek being stretched to 8 days to accommodate a slower relaxed pace for the children. The trekking component would start at Nayapul near Pokhara at 1,960m, reach a height of 3,210m at Poonhill and would then descend back to Pokhara.

We were flying with good airlines, visiting during the Spring when it is 'warm with a few showers'. Accommodation was confirmed for the duration of the tour, restaurants were now providing a diverse range of cuisine that would appeal to children ... and wireless technology was available pretty much everywhere. In case of emergency, we were covered by one of the best insurance companies in Australia - with unlimited medical expenses and helicopter rescue if needed.

What could possibly go wrong?

-------------------------------------------------------------

On Friday 24th April, our journey began in Chiang Rai. We had a great time there and were sad to say farewell to Huub and Ann who had looked after us for 5 days at the Chiang Rai Homestay.

Day 1 - Leaving Chiang Rai for the journey to Nepal, with Huub

We flew to Bangkok, arriving at the DMG Domestic Airport around 2pm. The Shuttle Bus took around one hour to drop us at Bangkok International Airport.

We were travelling from Bangkok to Kathmandu, via an overnight stay at New Delhi airport with Jet Airways Flight 63 and 264. The flight would leave Bangkok at 8.55pm on Friday 24th April, and after a stop off in New Delhi, would arrive in Kathmandu at 8.30am on 25th April. We had plenty of time, and were gathered with the rest of the passengers and crew ready to board the flight at 8.30pm.

The plane we would travel on did not dock at the terminal until 10.00pm, over an hour after we should have departed. At 11.00pm, word spread that the flight was cancelled due to the plane having a cracked windscreen.

Day 1 - Waiting for news from Jet Airways

Justine alerted the Jet Airways staff to our tired children, and we were allowed to proceed with the business class passengers to the other wing of the airport (over 1km walk) to transfer to a Thai Airways flight that was leaving at 11.15pm to New Delhi; the plane would delay until we boarded. This was great as it meant we would still arrive at New Delhi with plenty of time to catch our onward flight to Kathmandu.

Day 1 - 'Lucky' to make the priority list

After sprinting the 1km+ with the children, we were advised the plane could not wait any longer, and that the doors were now closed and the plane would depart without us.

Had we boarded either of these flights, we would have arrived at New Delhi in time to board our connecting flight to Kathmandu which landed at 8.30am on the 25th April. We would have been checked in to our hotel in Thamel and out and about in Kathmandu city when the earthquake happened.

By 2am on 25th April, Jet Airways had transferred us to Thai Airways flight THA319, leaving at 10.15am, and arriving Kathmandu at 12.30pm. Jet Airways accommodated us in a two bed room (for 5 of us) in the transit hotel. Luxury.

Day 1 - Transit Hotel, 2 beds + mattress for 5

We boarded flight THA 319 on 25th April, and began the journey to Kathmandu - taking off on schedule at 10.15am. At 12.15pm, we were descending to land in Kathmandu at 12.25pm.

The Captain advised us he had just been notified that there had been an earthquake in Kathmandu, and that we would climb again and circle the area for 1-2 hours. The earthquake had just happened, 20 minutes before we were to land, and the Captain had requested further information.

After a couple of hours, the captain informed us that due to runway damage, we were having to return to Bangkok, and would refuel at Calcutta on the way. We were disappointed although very concerned for the majority of the passengers on the plane who were Nepalese and assuming the worse based on the information the crew could pass on to them. Most of them would be meeting family members at the airport, and would have many family and friends in Kathmandu and its vicinity.

We arrived back in Bangkok at 7.30pm where Thai Airways assured us we had a room in the luxurious Novotel, just through customs ... which we could not proceed through as our visa had expired. We were surprised and upset that the Thai Authorities were not empowered to make an exception for our circumstances.

Day 2 - chocolate required

We waited .... and waited ...

Day 2 - waiting for accommodation

... when at midnight, Thai Airways finally found accommodation for us - back in the two bed room (for 5 of us) in the transit hotel; we were advised to seek further information the following morning.

On the morning of the 26th April, we sought clarity on what our options were.

Kathmandu had been declared a state of emergency. Whilst Thai Airways would fly us there, it was clearly not appropriate and highly dangerous, particularly with children. Kathmandu was not ready for us to conduct a humanitarian mission, maybe without children we would have gone - although we could not risk going there with so many unknowns relating to what the actual situation was in Nepal. We advised Thai Airways we would not be going to Kathmandu and to pull our luggage off the plane. Thai Airways cancelled our reservation on the flight; they advised they would keep our luggage in the office until we decided what we would do. Thai Airways would not re-route the flight or provide an alternative other than travelling to Kathmandu.

We investigated whether we could re-route our prepaid Kathmandu - Manchester flight, to Bangkok - Manchester flight with Qatar Airways. Qatar Airways advised the cost would be c.$6,000 AUD; more than a new ticket.

We still could not stay in Thailand, or even get through customs to retrieve our bags from the Thai Office; a side trip to Koh Samui was ruled out.

We investigated the cost of a flight to Manchester, given this was the next place we were visiting after Kathmandu. We purchased tickets on SwissAir flight LX181/LX390 leaving at 12.40pm - this involved an overnight stop in Zurich, arriving Manchester at 7.55am on 27th April.

Thai Airways advised us that they had lost 3 of the bags, although they had them tracked as being in New Delhi. Justine and I both cracked up. 'Ofcourse our bags are in India' .... we both laughed and said at the same time.

Day 3 - we had escaped from Bangkok Airport

SwissAir were aware that we had been living in the airport for a couple of days. The staff made sure our flight was very comfortable.

Day 3 - Allegra Hotel in Zurich, Switzerland

We arrived at Zurich Airport on the evening of 26th April, and as we were at the end of our 3rd day of travel, we purchased new clothes, had dinner and stayed overnight in Zurich.

As we ran into the airport on the morning of Day 4, the girls raced to the departure screen. It was a game we played - to see who could find out first where we needed to go to check in, and what gate we needed to get to. As Ella was running, a bottle of duty free Bombay Sapphire Gin bounced out of her rucksack and smashed on the floor. We burst out laughing and cleaned it up. Nothing really mattered except we were safe and nearly 'home'.

Day 4 - Nearly 'home' - at Zurich ready to board for Manchester

Day 4 - Back in Manchester and the sunshine!

On reflection of-course, and on seeing the devastation and ongoing scramble at the airport to exit the country, we are extremely grateful we never made it to Kathmandu on our original flight that was cancelled, and the flight that we subsequently missed. It was very close with the plane we actually did catch, which aborted our landing just 15 minutes after the earthquake had happened.

Our thoughts and prayers are with the people of Nepal

and all those directly affected by this tragedy

If you are able to donate to help the Nepalese - I recommend:
https://www.mycause.com.au/page/97191/joesbasecampnepalesefund

-------------------------------------------------------------

29th April Update

Eight million people have been affected by the massive earthquake in Nepal - more than a quarter of the country's population - the United Nations says.

The death toll has risen to 5,210, with almost 8,000 injured, officials say - and have warned the toll could reach 10,000

We arrived in Chiang Mai airport after an hour flight from Phuket. Our hotel's staff had a sign with Dad's name on it and he drove us to the Grand Napat. At our hotel we met Canadian friends, English friends and Thai friends! We spent quite a lot of time at the Central Festival mall, going ice-skating, buying warmer clothes, getting lots of socks, and buying walking shoes for Nepal. We visited the Night Bazaar, and went to some botanical gardens which had a great swimming pool. We spent 5 days in total in Chiang Mai.

Chiang mai

Ice Skating at Central Festival Mall:

Anna's first time!!

The Grand Napat hotel:

Our English friend Stephen:

Botanical Gardens:

Song Kran - a Buddhist Celebration that involves lots of water:

Chiang Rai

We then got a bus to Chiang Rai, before getting a small taxi/mini bus 'thing' to our homestay. For 5 days we stayed at Chiang Rai Homestay. We mainly stayed around our Homestay; going to the local monestery, climbing the mountain which is only a bike ride away, playing in the pool and hanging out with Mr Dog! We had a great stay in Chiang Rai with the Dutch owner Huub and his Thai wife Ann.

Bus Trip:

Homestay Chiang Rai:

Early morning walks:

Mr Dog:

On our first day in Chiang Rai, we went for a bike ride quite early. 5 minutes into a ride we found a German Shepherd, who stayed with us the whole morning.

Anna's friend Miller:

White Temple:

Believe it or not, this is a real place - Wat Rong Khun, better known as the White Temple, is a Buddhist temple in Thailand that looks like it was placed on earth by a God!